AMAZON

Monday, June 29, 2009

170W Audio Power Amplifier

170W Audio Power Amplifier

With LM4651 & LM4652

The combination of the LM4651 driver IC and the LM4652 power MOSFET Class D power amplifier IC provides a high efficiency amplifier solution, suitable for self-powered speakers, subwoofers and quality car boosters.

The LM 4651 is a fully integrated conventional pulse width modulator (PWM) driver, containing undervoltage, short circuit, overmodulation, and thermal shutdown protection circuitry. The IC features a standby function which shuts down the pulse width modulation, minimizing supply current.

The LM 4652 is a fully integrated H-bridge Power Mosfet IC in a TO220 power package. The IC has a built in temperature sensor to alert the LM4651 when the die temperature exceeds the threshold limit.

Used together, the LM4651 and LM4652 form a simple, compact, efficient, high quality power audio amplifier solution complete with protection, normally seen only in Class AB amplifiers.


170 W POWER AMPLIFIER schematic

The maximum efficiency of this circuit is 85% at 125W with a standby attenuation greater than 100dB. The THD at 10W, 4 ohms, 10 - 500Hz is max. 0.3%. The supply voltage can not exceed ± 22V.




LM5651 Connection Diagram LM5652 Connection Diagram

For the best performance a suitable preamplifier is required. With the addition of a preamplifier the gain of the power stage can be greatly reduced to improve performance. The gain should be set to 10 V/V allowing for low gain on the Class D stage with a total system gain high enough to be a complete solution for line level sources.

The input filter used here does not noticeably increase THD performance but will help to maintain a flat frequency response as the Q of the output filter changes with load impedance.


Preamplifier and filter schematic with LM833 IC

Design notes, full specs and recommended PCB reference designs can be found here.

Do not attempt to build this amplifier as your first project! Class D high power amplifiers are expensive, difficult to build and a very small error during assembly can lead to total devastation of the power IC or other costly components. lintasberita

2N3055 Power Amplifier

Simple and low cost. The optimal supply voltage is around 50V, but this amp work from 30 to 60V. The maximal input voltage is around 0.8 - 1V. As you can see, in this design the components have a big tolerance, so you can build it almost of the components, which you find at home. The and transistors can be any NPN type power transistor, but do not use Darlington types... The output power is around 60W.



Some comments:
- capacitor C1 regulates the low frequencies (bass), as the capacitance grows, the low frequncies are getting louder.
- capacitor C2 regulates the higher frequencies (treble), as the capacitance grows, the higher frequencies are getting quiter.
- this is a class B amplifier, this means, that a current must flow through the end transistors, even if there is no signal on the input. This current can be regulated with the 500Ω trimmer resistor. As this current incrases, the sound of the amplifier gets better, but the end transistors are more heating. But if this current decrases, the transistors are not heating so much, but the sound gets worse...



Amplifier schematic:

2N3055 Power Amplifier
author: Jacint Chapo lintasberita

Sub Woofer Power Amplifier

300W Subwoofer Power Amplifier (Updated)
Rod Elliott (ESP)
PCB PCBs are available for this project. Click the image for details.
heatsink The ESP heatsink extrusion is ideal for this project - click image for details Introduction

There are some important updates to this project, as shown below. Recent testing has shown that with the new ON Semi transistors it is possible to obtain a lot more power than previously. The original design was very conservative, and was initially intended to use 2SA1492 and 2SC3856 transistors (rated at 130W) - with 200W (or 230W) devices, some of the original comments and warnings have been amended to suit.

Updates
30 Jul 2003 - OnSemi has just released a new range of transistors, designed specifically for audio applications. These new transistors have been tested in the P68, and give excellent results. As a result, all previous recommendations for output transistors are superseded, and the new transistors should be used.

The output devices are MJL4281A (NPN) and MJL4302A (PNP), and feature high bandwidth, excellent SOA (safe operating area), high linearity and high gain. Driver transistors are MJE15034 (NPN) and MJE15035 (PNP). All devices are rated at 350V, with the power transistors having a 230W dissipation and the drivers are 50W.

23 Sept 2003 - The new driver transistors (MJE15034/35) seem to be virtually impossible to obtain - ON Semi still has no listing for them on the website. The existing devices (well known and more than adequate) are MJE15032 (NPN) and MJE15033 (PNP), and these will substitute with no problems at all. It is also possible to use MJE340 and MJE350 as originally specified (note that the pinouts are reversed between the TO-126 and TO-220 devices).

Note that some component values have been changed! The layout is the same, but the changes shown will reduce dissipation in Q7 and Q8 under light load conditions.

Having built a couple of P68 amps using these transistors, I recommend them highly - the amplifier is most certainly at its very best with the high gain and linearity afforded by these devices. Note that there are a few minor changes to the circuit (shown below).

With ±70V supplies, the input and current source transistors must be MPSA42 or similar - the original devices shown will fail at that voltage! Note that the MPSA42 pinout is different from the BC546s originally specified. Full details of transistor pinouts are shown in the construction article (available to PCB purchasers only).

High power amps are not too common as projects, since they are by their nature normally difficult to build, and are expensive. A small error during assembly means that you start again - this can get very costly. I recommend that you use the PCB for this amplifier, as it will save you much grief. This is not an amp for beginners working with Veroboard!

The amplifier can be assembled by a reasonably experienced hobbyist in about three hours. The metalwork will take somewhat longer, and this is especially true for the high continuous power variant. Even so, it is simple to build, compact, relatively inexpensive, and provides a level of performance that will satisfy most requirements.

WARNINGS:

* This amplifier is not trivial, despite its small size and apparent simplicity. The total DC is over 110V (or as much as 140V DC!), and can kill you.
* The power dissipated is such that great care is needed with transistor mounting.
* The single board P68 is capable of full power duty into 4 Ohm loads, but only at the lower supply voltage.
* For operation at the higher supply voltage, you must use the dual board version.
* There is NO SHORT CIRCUIT PROTECTION. The amp is designed to be used within a subwoofer or other speaker enclosure, so this has not been included. A short on the output will destroy the amplifier.

DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS AMPLIFIER AS YOUR FIRST PROJECT

Description

Please note that the specification for this amp has been upgraded, and it is now recommended for continuous high power into 4 Ohms, but You will need to go to extremes with the heatsink (fan cooling is highly recommended). It was originally intended for "light" intermittent duty, suitable for an equalised subwoofer system (for example using the ELF principle - see the Project Page for the info on this circuit). Where continuous high power is required, another 4 output transistors are recommended, wired in the same way as Q9, Q10, Q11 and Q12, and using 0.33 ohm emitter resistors.

Continuous power into 8 ohms is typically over 150W (250W for ±70V supplies), and it can be used without additional transistors at full power into an 8 ohm load all day, every day. The additional transistors are only needed if you want to do the same thing into 4 ohms at maximum supply voltage! Do not even think about using supplies over ±70V, and don't bother asking me if it is ok - it isn't!

The circuit is shown in Figure 1, and it is a reasonably conventional design. Connections are provided for the Internal SIM (published elsewhere on the Project Pages), and filtering is provided for RF protection (R1, C2). The input is via a 4.7uF bipolar cap, as this provides lots of capacitance in a small size. Because of the impedance, little or no degradation of sound will be apparent. A polyester cap may be used if you prefer - 1uF with the nominal 22k input impedance will give a -3dB frequency of 7.2Hz, which is quite low enough for any sub.



Figure 1
Figure 1 - Basic Amplifier Schematic

The input stage is a conventional long-tailed pair, and uses a current sink (Q1) in the emitter circuit. I elected to use a current sink here to ensure that the amp would stabilise quickly upon application (and removal) of power, to eliminate the dreaded turn on "thump". The amp is actually at reasonably stable operating conditions with as little as +/-5 volts! Note also that there are connections for the SIM (Sound Impairment Monitor), which will indicate clipping better than any conventional clipping indicator circuit. See the Project Pages for details on making a SIM circuit. If you feel that you don't need the SIM, omit R4 and R15.

The Class-A driver is again conventional, and uses a Miller stabilisation cap. This component should be either a 500V ceramic or a polystyrene device for best linearity. The collector load uses the bootstrap principle rather than an active current sink, as this is cheaper and very reliable (besides, I like the bootstrap principle :-)

All three driver transistors (Q4, 5 & 6)must be on a heatsink, and D2 and D3 should be in good thermal contact with the driver heatsink. Neglect to do this and the result will be thermal runaway, and the amp will fail. For some reason, the last statement seems to cause some people confusion - look at the photo below, and you will see the small heatsink, 3 driver transistors, and a white "blob" (just to the left of the electrolytic capacitor), which is the two diodes pressed against the heatsink with thermal grease.

C11 does not exist on this schematic, so don't bother looking for it. It was "mislaid" when the schematic was prepared, and I didn't notice until someone asked me where and what it was supposed to be. Sorry about that.

It is in the output stage that the power capability of this amp is revealed. The main output is similar to many of my other designs, but with a higher value than normal for the "emitter" resistors (R16, R17). The voltage across these resistors is then used to provide base current for the main output devices, which operate in full Class-B. In some respects, this is a "poor-man's" version of the famous Quad current dumping circuit, but without the refinements, and in principle is the same as was used in the equally famous Crown DC300A power amps.

Although I have shown MJL4281A and MJL4302A output transistors, because they are new most constructors will find that these are not as easy to get as they should be. The alternatives are MJL3281/ MJL1302 or MJL21193/ MJL21194.

Note: It is no longer possible to recommend any Toshiba transistors, since they are the most commonly counterfeited of all. The 2SA1302 and 2SC3281 are now obsolete - if you do find them, they are almost certainly fakes, since Toshiba has not made these devices since around 1999~2000.

Use a standard green LED. Do not use high brightness or other colours, as they may have a slighty different forward voltage, and this will change the current sink's operation - this may be a miniature type if desired. The resistors are all 1/4W (preferably metal film), except for R10, R11 and R22, which are 1W carbon film types. All low value resistors (3.3 ohm and 0.33 ohm) are 5W wirewound types.

Because this amp operates in "pure" Class-B (something of a contradiction of terms, I think), the high frequency distortion will be relatively high, and is probably unsuited to high power hi-fi. At the low frequency end of the spectrum, there is lots of negative feedback, and distortion is actually rather good, at about 0.04% up to 1kHz. My initial tests and reports from others indicate that there are no audible artefacts at high frequencies, but the recommendation remains.

Power Dissipation Considerations
I have made a lot of noise about not using this amp at ±70V into 4 ohms without the extra transistors. A quick calculation reveals that when operated like this, the worst case peak dissipation into a resistive load is 306W (4Ω/ ±70V supplies). The four final transistors do most of the work, with Q7 and Q8 having a relatively restful time (this was the design goal originally). Peak dissipation in the 8 output devices is around 70W each.

Since I like to be conservative, I will assume that Q7 and Q8 in the updated schematic shown contribute a little under 1A peak (which is about right). This means that their peak dissipation is around 18W, with the main O/P devices dissipating a peak of 70W each. The specified transistors are 230W, and the alternatives are 200W, so why are the extra transistors needed?

The problem is simple - the rated dissipation for a transistor is with a case temperature of 25°C. As the amp is used, each internal transistor die gets hot, as does the transistor case - the standard derating curves must be applied. Add to this the reactive component as the loudspeaker drives current back into the amp (doubling the peak dissipation), and it becomes all too easy to exceed the device limits. The only way that this amp can be used for continuous high power duty with ±70V supplies and a 4Ω loudspeaker load is to keep the working temperature down to the absolute minimum - that means four output devices per side, a big heatsink and a fan!



Figure 1a
Figure 1a - Double Output Stage

Figure 1A shows the doubled output stage, with Q9, Q10, Q11 and Q12 simply repeated - along with the emitter resistors. Each 1/2 stage has its own zobel network and bypass caps as shown, as this is the arrangement if the dual PCB version is built. When you have this many power transistors, the amp will happily drive a 4 ohm load all day from ±70V - with a big enough heatsink, and forced cooling. Over 500W is available, more than enough to cause meltdown in many speakers!

A Few Specs and Measurements
The following figures are all relative to an output power of 225W into 4 ohms, or 30V RMS at 1kHz, unless otherwise stated. Noise and distortion figures are unweighted, and are measured at full bandwidth. Measurements were taken using a 300VA transformer, with 6,800uF filter caps.

Mains voltage was about 4% low when I did the tests, so power output will normally be slightly higher than shown here if the mains are at the correct nominal voltage. Figures shown are measured with ±56V nominal, with the figure in (brackets) estimated for ±70V supplies.

8Ω 4Ω
Voltage Gain 27dB 27dB
Power (Continuous) 153W (240W) 240W (470W)
Peak Power - 10 ms 185W (250W) 344W (512W)
Peak Power - 5 ms 185W (272W) 370W (540W)
Input Voltage 1.3V (2.0V) RMS 1.3V (2.0V) RMS
Noise * -63dBV (ref. 1V) -63dBV (ref. 1V)
S/N Ratio * 92dB 92dB
Distortion 0.4% 0.4%
Distortion (@ 4W) 0.04% (1 Khz) 0.04% (1 Khz)
Distortion (@ 4W) 0.07% (10 kHz) 0.07% (10 kHz)
Slew Rate > 3V/us > 3V/us

* Unweighted

These figures are quite respectable, especially considering the design intent for this amp. While (IMO) it would not be really suitable for normal hi-fi, even there it is doubtful that any deficiencies would be readily apparent, except perhaps at frequencies above 10kHz. While the amp is certainly fast enough (and yes, 3V/us actually is fast enough - response extends to at least 30kHz, but not at full power), the distortion may be a bit too high.

Note that the "peak power" ratings represent the maximum power before the filter caps discharge and the supply voltage collapses. I measured these at 5 milliseconds and 10 milliseconds. Performance into 4 ohm loads is not quite as good, as the caps discharge faster. The supply voltage with zero power measured exactly 56V, and collapsed to 50.7V at full power into 8 ohms, and 47.5V at full power into 4 ohms.



Photo of amp
Photo of Completed Prototype

The photo does not show the silk screened component overlay, since this is the prototype board. The final boards have the overlay (as do all my other boards). The observant reader will also see that the 5W resistor values are different from those recommended - this was an early prototype using 130W transistors.

As can be seen, this is the single board version. The driver transistors are in a row, so that a single sheet aluminium heatsink can be used for all three. Holes are provided on the board so the driver heatsink can be mounted firmly, to prevent the transistor leads breaking due to vibration. This is especially important if the amp is used for a powered subwoofer, but will probably not be needed for a chassis mounted system.

The driver and main heatsinks shown are adequate for up to 200W into 4 ohms with normal program material. The power transistors are all mounted underneath the board, and the mounting screw heads can be seen on the top of the board.

Deceptively simple, isn't it?

Power Supply

WARNING: Mains wiring must be performed by a qualified electrician - Do not attempt the power supply unless suitably qualified. Faulty or incorrect mains wiring may result in death or serious injury.

The basic power supply is shown in Figure 2. It is completely conventional in all respects. Use a 40-0-40 V transformer, rated at 300VA for normal use. For maximum continuous power, a 50-0-50V (500VA or more) transformer will be needed. This will give a continuous power of about 450W, and peak power of over 500W is possible with a good transformer. Remember my warnings about using the amp in this way, and the need for the additional output transistors, big heatsink and fan.



Figure 2
Figure 2 - Basic Power Supply Circuit

For 115V countries, the fuse should be 6A, and in all cases a slow blow fuse is required because of the inrush current of the transformer. For anything above 300VA, a soft-start circuit is highly recommended (see Project 39).

The supply voltage can be expected to be higher than that quoted at no load, and less at full load. This is entirely normal, and is due to the regulation of the transformer. In some cases, it will not be possible to obtain the rated power if the transformer is not adequately rated.

Bridge rectifiers should be 35A types, and filter capacitors must be rated at a minimum of 63V (or 75V if you use 70V supplies). Wiring needs to be heavy gauge, and the DC must be taken from the capacitors - not from the bridge rectifier.

Although shown with 4,700uF filter capacitors, larger ones may be used. Anything beyond 10,000uF is too expensive, and will not improve performance to any worthwhile degree. Probably the best is to use two 4,700uF caps per side (four in all). This will actually work better than a single 10,000uF device, and will be cheaper as well.

NOTE: It is essential that fuses are used for the power supply. While they will not stop the amp from failing (no fuse ever does), they will prevent catastrophic damage that would result from not protecting the circuit from over-current conditions. Fuses can be mounted in fuseholders or can be inline types. The latter are preferred, as the supply leads can be kept as short as possible. Access from outside the chassis is not needed - if the fuses blow, the amplifier is almost certainly damaged. lintasberita

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Computer Repair Tutorial Help and Tips

Computer Repair Tutorial Help and Tips
Computer Repair Tutorial Help and Tips if your computer is dead and won't boot we offer a quick tutorial with help and tips on how to fix your pc yourself using simple tests that anyone can perform. Fix your computer yourself by following our simple easy to understand tutorial showing some common problems a pc may encounter. Also this computer repair tutorial is good to help you identify which piece of hardware is defective. Your can use your own image or one of ours, select the typeface and text color you can even choose backgrounds for your cards. Please use the step by step instructions below to help identify the cause of your failure and aid you with your computer repair.

FREE Skins and Themes | Help and Support | Arcade Games | Get Some Stuff!!
computer repair tutorial
The PCman's Computer Repair Tutorial Help and Tips
This is a very basic, general guide intended to provide a basic explanation of what happens when a computer powers up and what you should expect to find. It may not help all users but it can get you started troubleshooting your computer by helping to identify which piece of hardware may be defective.
Step 1 - Does It Power Up?
Plug in your computer does the computer show any signs that is is getting power? Press the Power On button does it power up? Take the case cover off are there any lights lit on the motherboard?

If you get no signs that power is getting to your computer at this point it could be many things. It could be the power supply, the motherboard or on some motherboards the memory or the processor. Most modern computers will turn on with the motherboard having just the power supply and maybe some memory plugged into it.

If it doesn't, take a voltmeter and measure the pins in the large connector that plugs into the motherboard. If you don't get any voltages like 3.3 volts or so on one of the pins the power supply may be bad. You will have to substitute a known good power supply to be sure. Even though you may measure 3.3 volts the power supply may still be bad there are many different voltages coming out of it.
Step 2 - It Does Power Up But Nothing Else.
Take a voltmeter and measure the pins on the small connectors that plug into the hard drive. You should get +5 volts and +12 volts with the ground connected to the case. If you don't, the power supply is bad.

Disconnect everything from the motherboard except the power supply, the processor, the memory and the video card with a monitor hooked to it. Before you disconnect everything make a drawing of where everything goes. There are wires that go to the switch and lights on the front case, you don't want to remove those.

Press the power on, does it do anything? It should start to boot showing the computer manufacturer's logo or an error message saying "System Disk Not Found", which is fine because in this state there is no system disk. If you get nothing at this point it could be the motherboard, the processor, the memory or the video card. The only way to troubleshoot at this point is substitution.

I realize most people don't have extra processors and memory laying around so you may not be able to complete this step. For people that do have hardware laying around try substituting each piece until you get a changed result. A computer that was hit by lightening or a power surge may have multiple problems and may not react correctly when swapping hardware. In a case like that you may be out of luck in that you won't be able to figure out what is wrong. This tutorial is under the assumption that there is a single problem which is usually the case.
Step 3 - It Powers Up, But Won't Boot.
Your motherboard should now have the power supply, processor, memory and video card with a monitor connected. You should get something on the monitor screen that you normally would get except it doesn't complete the process to full boot. Unplug the computer and connect your hard drive to the motherboard. Upon power up you should hear it spinning. If it doesn't spin unplug the computer, disconnect the signal cable but leave the power cable if it still doesn't spin it may be defective. Using a voltmeter measure the voltages on the power connector pins there should be +5v and +12v if not if suspect the power supply.

If your hard drive is connected and you get a "System Disk Not Found" error now that is incorrect. You may have gotten a virus that wiped out you boot sector or damaged the windows boot files. If the Windows files are damaged by a virus it is suggested that you re-install Windows and do a Full Format when it asks you about that. This way no corrupt files will be able to infect your new installation.

If you recently installed new hardware and now it won't boot remove it and see if it will then boot correctly. If it is a pc card try plugging it into another slot, it will get another IRQ and may work because now there is no IRQ conflict.

If it now boots add each piece of hardware one at a time re-booting after each piece. If it hangs or won't boot you will know which piece is causing the problem. If it is a pc card try it in another PCI slot of if that doesn't work forget it or replace it.

We hope this computer repair tutorial and the help and tips enabled you to identify the problem that was keeping your computer from booting. lintasberita

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Accounting stock

AceStock
1.5 Filename AceStockSetup.exe Downloaded 127 times 127
AceStock AceStock is a FREE personal investment monitor. You can't afford not to have this tool if you own any stock, participate in Stock Options plan or just want to know what's happening on the market with your 401k today. AceStock brings realtime stock quotes right on your desktop. You don't have to watch it all the time, AceStock works in a completely automatic mode. Every so often AceStock downloads the latest stock quotes from the Net and issues an alert if the stock is out of your defined range. This is it, nothing else, but isn't that all you want to know about your invesments?

The latest version of AceStock adds many new data sources for true international investors, it supports quote downloads from Yahoo, Yahoo UK, Money Central, Google Finance, AMFI India, India Times, Russian Trade System and Zagreb Stock Exchange.

As an investor you probably know that there are a lot of web sites providing similar service. AceStock not only replaces several opened pages with one window, but also provides these benefits:

- Don't spend your time refreshing web pages - AceStock downloads quotes automatically in the background and does all the math for you!
- Some sites send emails if your stock is out of predefined range. Do you really want to read an email about something that has happened several hours or even days ago? AceStock alerts you immediately about any price changes!
- AceStock doesn't take any precious space on the taskbar - it stays in system tray all the time and blinks if your attention is required!

You can download from
http://www.freewr.com/download.php?download=acestock&lid=2263 lintasberita

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

SEO

Google's Search Engine Optimization
Starter Guide
Version 1.1, published 13 November 2008
Welcome to Google's Search Engine Optimization Starter Guide. This document first began as an
effort to help teams within Google, but we thought it'd be just as useful to webmasters that are new to
the topic of search engine optimization and wish to improve their sites' interaction with both users and
search engines. Although this guide won't tell you any secrets that'll automatically rank your site first
for queries in Google (sorry!), following the best practices outlined below will make it easier for search
engines to both crawl and index your content.
Search engine optimization is often about making small modifications to parts of your website. When
viewed individually, these changes might seem like incremental improvements, but when combined
with other optimizations, they could have a noticeable impact on your site's user experience and
performance in organic search results. You're likely already familiar with many of the topics in this
guide, because they're essential ingredients for any webpage, but you may not be making the most
out of them.
Search engine optimization affects only organic search results, not paid or "sponsored" results,
such as Google AdWords
Google's Search Engine Optimization Starter Guide, Version 1.1, published 13 November 2008 lintasberita